Friday, May 3, 2024
Israel Compos of Pecos has the nickname Pody.
“Pody was a sheep dog, and when I was in school, I used to have long straight hair that covered my eyes most of the time,” he says. “So, my classmates started calling me Pody, and the name stuck.”
After a career in law enforcement, Pody opened a barbeque restaurant.
“We started off cooking two briskets a day, maybe; then a gentleman by the name of Daniel Vaughn came by who was writing a book titled “THE PROPHETS OF SMOKED MEAT.” He was just driving through here because he likes country music, and Charlie Robinson is one of his favorite singers and songwriters. Charlie Robinson did a song called “THE LIGHTS OF LOVING COUNTY.” Mr. Vaughn was going to Loving County to take some pictures that would match some of the lyrics in the song. He stopped in here, took some pictures, and the next thing I know, I’m in his book. Two years later he gets the job at Texas Monthly as barbeque editor. Then he comes back and puts us in the top fifty barbeque restaurants in Texas.”
Pody has made the magazine’s top fifty list a few times. His creamy hominy ranks 4th in the side dish category.
“We put chopped brisket in it, and we use green chiles from Hatch, New Mexico. We call it green chile hominy. Our customers really love it, and they’ll come by and buy a quart to take home with them.”
He has a full menu.
“Turkey, brisket, sausage, ribs, and pulled pork.”
A national food critic named Pody’s pulled pork among the top five in the country. He serves two types of brisket.
“We have moist, that has a buttery type of taste, and it nearly melts in your mouth, kind of like a well marbled steak. Then we have the lean which is a little bit dryer, and the meat is more condensed, not loose like the moist. We sell more moist. That’s the most popular.”
He tried all sorts of wood for cooking: cherry, pecan, and others. He decided on mesquite and post oak.
“The post oak lasts a lot longer. It’s a denser wood. Mesquite is great for the taste. I usually smoke briskets for about six hours. Then we let it slow cook for about ten more hours, so it takes a long time to get our meat ready.”
His place is on Highway 285 next to the Pecos Rodeo Grounds. He runs it with his family and friends. He has other interests, too.
“I’m in my second term as county commissioner.”
