Tuesday, April 30, 2024
Nolan Marshall stands at his barbecue pit next to Sue Sedberry, who helps serve customers.
Nolan Marshall could have retired after working 60 years as a truck driver, but the Gatesville resident instead embarked on a second career cooking barbecue, and the faithful customers who frequent his establishment Thursday through Saturday are glad he did.
"I cook ribs, brisket, sausage – I do it all," Nolan said. "I really enjoy cooking. Before I had this business, I cooked for family all the time on weekends. It's something I really enjoy.
"If people come here and try it, most of them come back. That's how it got its name (Marshall's Comeback BBQ)."
Business was steady on a recent Friday, with a line of people waiting during lunch hour, although the service was quick. Nolan is helped by his son Renny and employee Sue Sedberry.
Renny said he likes being able to help wherever he can.
"I like meeting people, serving people and just helping out – I enjoy it all," he said.
As for his favorite menu item, Renny said he likes the sausage best.
While ribs, brisket and sausage take top billing, other items including barbecue Frito pie and loaded baked potatoes are also popular.
"I sell more brisket than anything," he said. "Sometimes, it gets so busy I can hardly keep up. We also sell a lot of barbecue Frito pie and loaded baked potatoes.
"I also do catering if anyone has a special event."
Nolan said he mixes his own barbecue salt, and the banana pudding on the menu is homemade.
He came to Gatesville in 1961 after a career on the road delivering mobile homes.
"I traveled all over the place – Arizona, Oklahoma, Arkansas and also places in Texas – Odessa, Fort Worth, El Paso, Houston and Dallas," Nolan said.
Andrew Taylor, a family friend who went to school in Gatesville with Renny Marshall, said he works for Union Pacific Railroad which involves frequent travel, and Marshall's Comeback BBQ is among the best he has had.
"I travel a lot and eat a lot of barbecue, and I love coming here," Taylor said. "I like this the best. The food is great, and I also think a lot of the family. Mr. Marshall is a humble man and he is always doing what he can to help people.
"My favorite thing to get here is the three-meat plate. You can tell they enjoy feeding people."
Nolan said in addition to cooking, interacting with customers is a highlight for him.
"I enjoy meeting the customers," he said. "Just about everyone I've met has been really nice."
In addition to Renny, Nolan has 10 grandchildren and 11 great-grandchildren, some of whom come and help, Nolan said.
The family connection is strong for the business.
"This will be passed down to (Renny) one day, so the legacy will continue," Taylor said.
Marshall’s Comeback BBQ is open from 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. Thursday through Saturday, and is located at 402 N. Lutterloh Ave. in Gatesville, just past St. Louis Street and down the road from H-E-B.
For catering or special orders, call 254-679-9123.
